MINI PIG FOOD AND DIET
We don't say we have the "Premier pet mini pigs in Southern California" lightly! We are HUGE believers in the detrimental effects of GMO feed. Corn and soy are the main ingredients in most feeds for pigs. So we invest double the cost (per bag of feed) so our pigs and piglets get 100% organic, non-GMO pig feed! This ensures you are getting QUALITY in your investment for your future family pet. There can be hidden, underline health issues that pigs on non-organic feed suffer with. This won't show itself for months, or years maybe, but it will be to the detriment of your loving pet.
You may have noticed most breeders suggest Mazuri pig feed..(contains GMOS) but we humbly feel from our research and experience that it is not the best choice of feed. It is marketed as a mini pig feed... but the protein/fiber values are the same as other pig feeds and there seem to be a lot of nutritional concerns of pigs eating Mazuri pellets: bad breath, hair loss, frequent gas, urinary tract issues, cancerous growths, and the list goes on. Mazuri is also suggested to contain MSGs in the feed, which is not healthy for pigs (or humans).
SOME OPTIONS FOR ORGANIC FEED ARE:
Nature's best organic mini pig feed
Modesto Milling 15% organic pig feed
Scratch And Peck Mini Pig feed (Organic and GMO free)
HOW MUCH TO FEED YOUR PIG
Generally speaking, your new baby piglet will need 1/4 cup of pellets in the morning, and another 1/4 cup in the evening. Spreading the amount of food your piggy needs into 2 feedings a day is HIGHLY advised. It is EXTREMELY important that you follow basic mini pig feeding guidelines. Also, we feel it's beneficial for digestion to ADD WATER to each meal. It’s really simple and doesn't need to be measured.. but enough water to wet the food down.
A mini pig needs 2% of its body weight in pellets per day. If you have a 10-pound pig, he weighs 160 oz....2% of that weight is 3.2 oz per food a day. If 1/2 level cup is right at 3 oz weight then a 10-pound pig is recommended to have 1/2 cup split into two feedings a day. 1/4 cup in am, 1/4 cup at night. So it doesn't take a lot to feed their nutritional needs. This food is completely balanced for them by vitamins/minerals/protein. The main reason people overfeed is they feel like such a tiny amount, just couldn't be enough for their baby to eat....so they don't measure very well...and so their overweight journey begins. (Of course dark greens and veggies are okay to add to meals or give in between meals)
Feeding pigs is more art than science. Overfeeding leads to obesity, underfeeding leads to malnutrition and early death.
The most important thing is How does your pig look and act? A pig should not have any hip or rib bones visible, but should not look like a stuffed sausage, either. A young piglet should be active, alert, interested in their surroundings, with clear eyes and healthy skin. Lethargy, dull eyes, bad skin, and lack of interest are all signs of starvation, malnutrition, or serious illness.
WATER IS IMPORTANT
Ever hear of the phrase "sweat like a pig"? Well, pigs do not actually have sweat glands. Pigs cannot sweat! Actually the only place they “sweat” is out of the top end of their nose! You will see little tiny droplets of water forming there. This means they need plenty of fresh water available at all times to prevent overheating.
Pigs can also be prone to urinary tract infections. Make sure all pigs have plenty of fresh water available at all times and that they drink it. If your pig seems reluctant to drink water, add a little fruit juice (like apple juice) or some Gatorade or similar sports type drink to the water. Just enough to add flavor usually does the trick.
Your piglet will ALWAYS need access to water. Pigs drink a lot more water than dogs do (because they do not sweat).. this is how they stay cool. Since their noses are very strong they can easily bump and spill.. or turn their water dish over. You need to either have a heavy enough dish that they can not tip over or you need to secure it so it cannot be tipped over. This is the water bowl we suggest for inside and this is what we suggest for water outside
It's REALLY important your pig can't tip his outside water over, so this square pan is perfect and also is big enough for them to climb into if they need to cool down.
HEALTHY MINI PIG WEIGHT
Here is a chart showing healthy weights; versus unhealthy weights in pigs as well as the recommended amount of pellets to feed per your pig's weight (we feed the 2% ration)
This is just a guideline. If your pig is less active and has a slower metabolism you'll need to feed less. If your pig is more active and has a faster metabolism you'll need to feed more. You'll also increase the food intake as they mature.
SNACKS FOR YOUR MINI PIG
In between those feedings you can give raw vegetables or fruit as a mid day snack, or while you are working with them or training them. Fruits should always be given in moderation because of the natural sugars. Apples, bananas (with peal), strawberries (they like the green top too), watermelon (with rhine), Romain lettuce, celery, kale, a small mixed salad with light olive oil on it, Cucumbers, Carrots, Grapes, Cheerios, Raisins, (in small amounts) anything healthy you can think of is a nice snack.
IMPORTANT: Pigs have salt toxicity issues. Never feed your pig salted items such as potato chips, salted nuts, or salted popcorn.
Being as smart as they are , pigs can learn to open lower kitchen cabinets if there is food in there. Always ensure that you either keep food and poisons above the pigs reach or you put child locks on your doors. A pig will learn to open your cupboard doors and help themselves ifthere is food there.
ICE CREAM (TOO HIGH CALORIE & ABSOLUTELY UNNECESSARY WITH SO MANY OTHER OPTIONS, LIKE FROZEN GRAPES)
WHITE POTATO (SWEET POTATOES ARE OKAY IN MODERATION
PARSNIPS (MAY CAUSE BLISTERS ON MOUTH)
ANY MEAT PRODUCT OR BONE
ANYTHING SALTYACORNS & OAK LEAVES
MOLDY WALNUT SHELLS
LIMA BEANS, RAW
KIDNEY BEANS, RAW
DECAYED SWEET POTATOES (BLACK PARTS)
TOMATO LEAVES AND VINE
AVOCADO - SKIN AND PIT
CORN STALKS (HIGH IN NITRATES)
RHUBARB - LEAVES (STALK IS SAFE TO EAT)
POTATO LEAVES AND GREEN PARTS OF POTATO
APPLE - LEAVES & SEEDS
APRICOT - LEAVES & SEEDS
PEAR - LEAVES & SEEDS
PEACH - LEAVES & SEEDS
NECTARINE - LEAVES & SEEDS
CHERRY - LEAVES & SEEDS
PLUM - LEAVES & SEEDS
BROCCOLI - ROOTS & SEEDS
CABBAGE - ROOTS & SEEDS
TURNIPS - ROOTS & SEEDS
MUSTARD - ROOTS & SEEDS
TOBACCO - LEAVES
NUTMEG- IN LARGE QUANTITIES
CASSAVA ROOTS AND LEAVES
ALMOND - LEAVES & SEEDS (ONLY WILD OR BITTER ALMONDS POSE A THREAT)
RAW CASHEWS (THE CASHEWS AT THE STORE ARE NOT RAW, AND ARE OK TO EAT)
-FLAXSEED - IN LARGE QUANTITIES LONG TERM
Salt toxicity/water deprivation:
Pigs can die from consuming too much sodium/salt. We have heard of people giving their pigs thanksgiving leftovers thinking they are rewarding their pig, only to find their pig dead the next day. Pigs can not handle too much salt/sodium. Please do not give your pig anything with salt. One fry won't cause this, but a whole bag of chips could. Be careful.
Another way for your pig to get salt toxicity is if they don’t have access to water at all times. Be sure your pig can get to fresh water at all times. Here are some tips for that:
Use tip-proof bowls, if your pigs are outside and they tip over anything you try to use.
Get a kiddie pool and make sure there is fresh water put in there every day.
If your pigs bowl is frequently empty when you return home, get a bigger bowl.
Scatter several bowls throughout your yard if you need to so there is easy access to fresh water at all times.
Put the water in a container sunk into the ground so that the pigs can't crush or smash it up.